Much has changed in 43 years, though some of it remains the same. Actually only the waves have remain constant all these years.
My first trip to Indonesia was in 1980 to the island of Bali. Little was known of the island at the time, especially for those like myself who lived in the eastern half of the United States. But surfers, try as they do to keep secret waves of distinction, began rumoring about the quality of surf being discovered in Indonesia.
I first landed in Sydney, Australia, being a country known for its competitive surfing, and spent several months enjoying its fruits. I learned, too, that Australian surfers had been making the short flight to Indo since the late 1970's and I soon followed. There, I was greeted by clove scent, spiritual rituals and extraordinary waves. A particular spot known as Uluwatu felt like it was from the pages of Lawrence Blair's Ring of Fire portrait of Indonesia. No roads lead to it. To surf it's long left point you walked four miles through undeveloped land ending at a cliff's edge, then down a steep rock face and through caves before entering its holy waters. Once in the water, well if you close your eyes now as you paddle out, the sensation will be the same as it was then.
Since 1980 I have traveled through many parts of Indonesia's archipelago but never had I returned to Bali and Uluwatu, that is until 2023. I expected change, as is normal, but not the shocking development I witness. Gone is the experience of adventure, the sensation of exploration and the danger of wildness. It's been replaced with first world amenities, the hustle and bustle of traffic and the consumerism of tourist from around the world. Maybe this was to be expected, progress, if this is the proper term, is unavoidable. Though a little less commercial initiative and little more balance would have been nice.
One thing for sure, and this I can attest to first hand, is that the waves remain strong and powerful and, once on them, they take your mind off the surroundings, past or present, and focus you on the task of racing through another speedy section and avoiding a heavy pounding on the shallow reef. Some things never change.
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